Detector Annealing Issues


Disclaimer...


Dear Friend,
    You are reading this because you are looking for information on the GMX Detector Annealing System.  I regret that I'm not there to answer your question directly.  I have thrown this information together rather quickly, so it may be less than desirable.  However, I hope that it can at least point you in the right direction.  I will provide contact information as soon as I have it.


System Components


Interlock System Logic and Operation

The interlock system is very simple, but it must be understood completely in order to safely anneal detectors.  It operates on the premise that the safest thing to do in an emergency is
  1. Valve off the detectors from any pumps and leave them under static vacuum if possible
  2. Disable any heating that is currently underway
  3. Call some poor sap in to deal with the problem
Anything which constitutes a fault or alarm condition will result in the above two things occuring.  Before trying to explain the logic, let us examine exactly what is monitored and how it is done. Now that we've examined what is monitored in detail and their associated fault conditions, let's boil it down into something that is more easitly studied and remembered.  An alarm condition is generated for the following: Well, ok.  We know what a fault or alarm condition is.  Let's move on and see what happens when we get an alarm, again, in some detail.

Recall that we stated earlier that we wanted to isolate the detectors from any pumping systems and disable the heaters.  Also, we wanted to call someone to deal with the problem.  Frankly, the first item is trivial.  In order to isolate the detectors, we need only shut the gate valve - the only vacuum valve that should be open when the system is alarmed.  Thus, the interlock protection system will de-energize the solenoid valve that controlls compressed air flow to the gate valve, effectively causing the compressed air to shut the valve.  That's it.  Alarm condition = no power to gate valve = gate valve closure.

The second action, disabling the heaters, is only slightly more complicated.  When I spec'ed the system for Phil, we had a mis-communication somewhere, that resulted in the logic box's internal heater relay not be rated for sufficient current to drive all of the heaters at once.  For this reason, a second, external heater power relay box was built that could accomodate all of the heaters at once.  Ok, stay with me now.  Power for the heaters comes from a wall outlet, though the external heater enable relay, to a power strip, and then to the heater controllers.  The power for the external heater enable relay comes from the logic box, through the internal heater enable relay and then to the control side of the external heater enable relay box.  The power controlling the internal heater enable relay comes from the logic box, of course.  Got it?  We're just using a relay, to control power to a relay, to control power to the outlet strip that distributes power to the heater controllers.  I'll try to draw a picture.  When a fault is detected, the logic box goes into alarm mode and the power to the internal heater relay is disabled.  This, in turn, disables power to the external heater power relay, which in turn, disables power to the heater controllers.  Alarm condition = no ac power to heaters.

All right.  So far, so good.  We've got the detectors in a tolerable condition at least.  But what we'd really like is to get the problem solved and the anneal back underway.  To do that, we will have to call someone in.  This is necessary, because there is no automated way to exit the alarm condition.  Once a fault is detected and the logic box goes into an alarm condition, someone must be physically present to reset the logic.  This was done, because automatic recovery was simply not possible and really wasn't necessary.

There are two methods used to call someone in.  First, the simple method.  The logic box contains a piezo-electric tranducer that screams its bloody little head off when the box goes into alarm mode.  Even with two doors shut, the alarm can be heard in the hallway.  The second, more complex method involves a radio shack phone dialer which has been integrated into the system.  The dialer will call 3 phone numbers and deliver a pre-recorded message.  The manual explains its operation.  The dialer can be configured to call someone's office, home, or the telecomunications device of your choice.  We have a pager for this purpose.  I used to use my cell phone.  It was particularly nice, because it had caller ID, so I didn't even have to answer the phone.

Note that it is possible to disable the audio alarm and the phone dialer independantly.  Whenever the system is not in use, it is in the alarm condition because the plenum is at atmospheric pressure, filled with dry nitrogen.  Thus we will have an MKS TC gauge fault at all times.  Prior to removing detectors from the system, the operator simply disables both the audio transducer and the dialer and allows the system to go into alarm mode when the plenum is vented.

It is also possible to disable the gate valve interlock protection thus allowing the gate valve to remain open even when the logic box is in the alarm condition.  This is necessary on pumpdown, when the plenum pressure is not yet < 7 x 10e-5 but the turbo must pump on the plenum.

Because of these bypass options, it is imperitive that the operator ensure proper switch configuration before considering the system "safe" to leave.  Leaving the gate valve interlock switch in the bypass position effectively defeats the entire protection scheme and could cause failure of the turbo pump should a catastrophic vacuum failure occur.  Note that on loss of AC power the valve will still shut, leading one to think that this might not be as bad a thing to do as I've led you to believe.  However, the problem comes when power is restored and the valve automatically opens again, irrespective of any other conditions!

Operation of the interlock system is relatively straightforward.  One simply connects the detectors to the plenum ports, roughs out the plenum, opens the valves to the detectors, and then pumps until all fault indicators are out.  At that point, the interlock system may be enabled (ensure that the heaters are off until needed) and the dialer programmed.


Stick Heaters

The stick heaters are used to apply heat to the Pitt detectors and the smaller of the FSU detectors.  They consist of a small heating element and a type k thermocouple embedded in a small, cylindrical piece of aluminum that is itself mounted at the end of a long phenolic rod of similar diameter.  A large moulded plastic handle is included (presumably to justify their expense).  There are two cables that extend from the stick heater.  One is a standard 3 conductor AC power cord used to supply power to the heating element.  The other is a two conductor wire that terminates in a connector consisting of two pins of different diameters and is for the thermocouple.  We have stick heaters of two lengths.  The shorter heater can only be used with the Pitt Detectors.

The stick heaters are used in conjunction with the heater controllers.  Ortec took an Omega, Type K thermocouple-based temperature controller, added a switch and a lamp, and doubled the price.  The controllers have an AC power cord that is plugged into the relay protected power outlet strip.  The AC power cord of the stick heater is then plugged into the outlet on the back of the controller.  The thermocouple is also plugged into the back of the controller.  I like to plug the thermocouple cable in first, so that there is never any chance of having the heater going full blast withouth the thermocouple monitoring the temperature.  The controllers have an analog temperature dial on their front panel that may be locked at any setting with a small allen screw.   They also have an on/off switch and a power indicator lamp.  The lamp above the switch indicates that power is available to the controller.  The red LED on the Omega controller indiates that power is applied to the stick heater.  This LED indicates the heater's duty cycle.  On should verify that the controllers cycle when starting an anneal.

As of this my writing this (see date at bottom of page) the controllers are in desperate need of calibration.  Errors as much as 20-25 degrees C have been observed.  For this reason, it is imperative that the crystal temperature be monitored via the RTD and heat applied slowly until the calibration is determined.  Alternatively, one can use the seperate type K thermocouple system we have to measure the cal error of each of the sticks and adjust based on that.  I _strongly_  recommend monitoring the xtal temp on every detector on every anneal.


Measuring Crystal Temperature

Each of the Ortec GMX detectors that we have uses a 500-ohm, Pt, two conductor RTD for monitoring the temperature of the crystal.  One can access the two pins on the electrical feedthrough without removing any of the electronics assemblies.  The proceedure is roughly as follows:
  1. Remove the 2-4 screws that hold the aluminum housing surrounding the electronics packages in place.  This usually has the tag indicating the model and serial number on it.  The screws are usually flat-head, phillips screws - probably #4-40 thread.
  2. Slide the aluminum housing away from the dewar until the entire electronics section is exposed.
  3. Carefully remove the plastic film used to insulate the electronics packages from the aluminum housing.
  4. Locate the green and black wires that connect the pre-amp assy to the RTD pins.  Carefully remove them, noting their orientation.
  5. Attach a digital ohm meter to these two pins.  Set the meter to measure resistance in the 0-1000 ohm range if the meter does not autorange.
  6. Verify that the indication is reasonable for room temperature when starting!  Problems with bad connections can give false (elevated) readings.
Upon completion, reverse the above proceedure.

The resistance that is measured can be correlated to a temperature using a chart located in the annealing lab.  It is in a protective plastic cover.  The resister's resistance increases with temperature.  At 0 degrees Celcius, the resistance is about 500 ohms, and the change is about 2 ohm/degree if you can't find the chart.